
The mountains rose up out of the mist like a scene from a movie, but even quasi-questionable weather couldn’t diminish our excitement for the Tongariro Crossing.

See?
Yup, we were pretty excited for 19.4 kilometers (that’s 12 miles, American friends) of mountain hiking.
The Tongariro Crossing is known as one of the world’s most amazing hikes. It takes you across a full mountain, with everything from the scrubby plant-covered base to the rocky mountainside, the windswept mountaintop, lakes, waterfalls, and wooded terrain that felt almost like being back in the north woods of Wisconsin and Minnesota. The variety of terrain seems so surreal, looking back at my pictures it seems impossible that it was all encapsulated in one day-hike.
The hike started innocuously enough. It was flat with wide dirt pathways. When the walk got marshy, the conservation department had already put up boarded walkway so you didn’t sink into the sodden ground. (It wasn’t that wet when we hiked, but it was a bit damp and drizzly at the start of the walk.)
Just prior to beginning the ascent toward Red Crater, we came across the side track to Mount Ngauruhoe, best known to Lord of the Rings fans as “Mount Doom.” Prior to our hike, Robin and I had talked about wanting to climb Mount Doom. After all, it’s Mount Doom! How often does one get the opportunity to do such a thing? However, we had been forewarned that this was a tricky climb. First, our hostel roommate from the previous evening, Peter, had already shared with us his experience in climbing Mount Doom. (For the record, Peter is just about one of the most fascinating individuals I’ve yet to meet! He has travelled all over the world on extreme adventures; he shared several stories of his escapades with us. He works in his home country of England for a while, saves up, and then takes off all over the world. He’s just . . . cool!) Just like the hobbits, you have to climb Mount doom on all fours, grabbing at bits of dirt along the way. There’s no real path. This wasn’t enough to completely deter us, but we decided to “see how we felt when we saw it.” Our second warning came from our bus driver who dropped us off at the start of the track, a man craggy enough to have been carved out of the rough hewn mountainsides we came across along our hike. Due to the fog and the wet terrain from the previous night’s rain, he cautioned that anyone who wanted to climb Ngauruhoe should consult with him first, and that only the most experienced of hikers should take the climb. Robin and I glanced at one another and confirmed that although we were perfectly suited to trek the Tongariro Crossing, Ngauruhoe was not ours to conquer that particular day.
(This just gives me an excuse to go back and trek the Tongariro Crossing again! I need to face Mount Doom!)
We confirmed our decision not to climb the summit of Mount Ngauruhoe whilst passing Mount Doom--from the wide track, you could see the hardened lava flow from it’s last eruption (1975), but the entire mountain was completely shrouded in fog. Not ideal climbing conditions for gals who had not previously grappled with hand and foot climbing.) We were thrown a small consolation prize just as we were about to ascend the steepest part of our hike--the wind shifted the clouds and we got a glimpse of Mount Ngauruhoe through the mist.


As we turned back toward the track, we were given one more moment to ponder our options (and level of fitness) before we continued our hike. Here I am, thinking really hard. (Or plotting something nefarious. Take your pick!)
And we were off!
Climbing, climbing, and climbing!
Uphill adventuring isn’t so bad. Yes, it’s tough, but it’s not pure evil. Stairs, on the other hand, are a different story. I know they can be dead helpful sometimes, but so much of the time they feel like sheer torture. During the stair-laden part of our hike, we heard a lot of heavy breathing, both from ourselves and those we hiked near or passed. One lady said, “I feel like I’m working a dirty phone call!”
Luckily for us, the stairs ended. Though we continued to climb upwards, we had more gradients and rocks to help us along our way. However, we did encounter climate changes! We had happily layered ourselves for this hike, and though we were sweated from the exertion of the uphill hiking, it was quite chilly at the top! Coats came on, pants got rolled back down. I actually traded out my lighter jacket for my better-insulated one when we stopped for lunch.
(Incidentally, simple peanut butter on bread, at the top of a hike tastes phenomenal. Extreme wind enhances the flavor.)

As we walked away from our lunch stop, the craziest thing happened! It became warmer; the wind, instead of simply blowing at us in cool blasts, actually blew the fog away and we saw sunlight and blue skies again. And not a moment too soon! As we started our first mini-descent, skating through loose, dark dirt toward the Emerald Lakes, we were treated to some of the most astounding colors we’d seen yet. In front of us, we could see the bright green of Emerald Lake, caused by minerals that leach from the surrounding rocks. Against the black of the volcanic soil, the blue of the sky, and the

constantly moving fog, the green of the water appeared gem-like. When we turned around, we also had the chance to see red crater, which mere minutes before had been so saturated in fog we had to take it on good faith that it was there.
After the breathtaking scenes at Red Crater and the Emerald Lake, the rest of the walk felt serene. There were moments where the view opened up into vast landscapes that seemed to go on forever. In the last kilometers, we plunged into woodlands that felt like we had suddenly landed back home in the midwest!

All too soon we found ourselves at the end of the track. It was gratifying to have beaten the anticipated 7-8 hours--we managed the trek in six hours! Oddly, even though we had done an awful lot of walking and climbing, I didn’t feel particularly sore or even tired. (Of course, the next morning, my first few steps were a bit like Frankenstein’s . . .)
And remember that half bottle of Shiraz we had started in Raglan? We finished it that evening . . . after we had each enjoyed a complimentary glass of wine (included with the purchase of our bus tickets; for those of you familiar with my low alcohol tolerance, this was A LOT of booze in one sitting!). It was almost surreal sitting back with wine in hand, watching a full moon rise over Mount Doom in the distance. The rhyme made me giggle. Or maybe that was the wine talking . . .